Riley Triangle Shawl

Riley Triangle Shawl
Test knitted by Joan W.

Hi knitters!

I hope all is well. It has been months since my last published pattern but I’m very excited to finally introduce the Riley Shawl! I’ve been working on this shawl since November of last year and months later, here we are…a finished product!

The Riley Shawl is the first pattern on Purl Avenue that is available for purchase. So head over to Ravelry and Etsy for purchase information.

Knitted using three skeins of Madelinetosh Vintage, the Riley Shawl is a triangle shawl that is worked from the bottom up. I’m so glad I picked Tosh Vintage because I absolutely love the bouncy, squishy characteristic of this yarn. The colorway used is Hudson River Blue (color might be disco’ed) but I can certainly see a variation of gray looking great as well. After blocking, the shawl measures roughly 63″ by 30″ but you might be able to squeeze in a few more inches depending on how aggressively you block it.

Wet blocking
Wet block method was used.

Materials

Yarn required: Madelinetosh Vintage – Approx. 600 yards

US #8 (5mm) needles

Yarn or tapestry needle

Gauge

40 sts x 30 row = 4ins

Riley Triangle Shawl detail
Riley Triangle Shawl side view
Riley Triangle Shawl wrap

Cell Stitch

Cell Stitch

Similar to the Mock Crochet Stitch where both stitch patterns require the use of knitting and purling into the previous yarn over stitches, the Cell Stitch incorporates multiple decrease techniques such as ssk (slip, slip, knit) and k2tog (knit 2 together) in addition to increase stitches such as yo (yarn over) and double yarn over to produce the interesting design resembling blood cells. If you like this stitch, be sure to check out the Eyespot Lace Stitch.

Pattern

Skill: intermediate
Multiple of 4 sts + 6

Row 1 (RS): k1, k2tog, *(yo) x2, ssk, k2tog; rep from * to the last 3 sts, (yo) x2, ssk, k1.
Row 2: p2, (k1, p1) into the double yo, *p2, (k1, p1) into the double yo; rep from * to the last 2 sts, p2.
Row 3: k1, yo, *ssk, k2tog, (yo) x2; rep from * to the last 5 sts, ssk, k2tog, yo, k1.
Row 4: p4, *(k1, p1) into the double yo, p2, rep from * to the last 2 sts, p2.

Repeat Rows 1-4.

Knitting Abbreviations

yo (yarn over): wrap the yarn around the right-hand needle from back to front counterclockwise before knitting the next stitch. Then work the next stitch as normal.

ssk (slip, slip, knit): slip the next 2 stitches knitwise, one at a time, insert the left-hand needle through the front of both loops and knit them together.

k2tog (knit 2 together): insert the right-hand needle into the first two stitches on the left-hand needle and wrap the working yarn around the right-hand needle as if you would for a knit stitch. Pull the yarn through both stitches and slide both stitches off the left-hand needle. You have now knitted two stitches together thus resulting in a right-leaning decrease.

Click HERE for more knitting abbreviations.

Mock Crochet Stitch

Mock Crochet Stitch

If you like the way crochet stitches look and would like to replicate it via knitting, then you must consider the Mock Crochet stitch in your next knitting project. The design of this stitch pattern resembles the traditional eyelet crochet stitch pattern. With an easy four-row repeat, the Mock Crochet stitch is rated intermediate because it requires the use of the s2kp2 (slip 2, knit, pass 2) technique as well as knitting and purling into the previous yarn over stitches. But if you’re familiar with these techniques, you’ll find that this stitch pattern is a very quick knit.

Pattern

Skill: intermediate
Multiple of 3 sts + 5

Row 1 (RS): knit.
Row 2: purl.
Row 3: k1, yo, *s2kp2, (yo) x2; rep from * to the last 4 sts, s2kp2, yo, k1.
Row 4: p3, *(k1, p1) into the double yo, p1; rep from * to the last 2 sts, p2.

Repeat Rows 1-4.

Knitting Abbreviations

S2kp2 (slip 2, knit, pass 2) or CDD (central double decrease): on the right side (RS) slip 2 stitches at once knitwise, knit the next stitch, then pass the 2 slipped stitches over the previously knit stitch.

On the wrong side (WS) or purl side, insert the needle into the second stitch and then the first stitch (in that order). Slip both stitches at once onto the right-hand needle. Purl the next stitch, then pass the 2 slipped stitches over the purled stitch.

yo (yarn over): wrap the yarn around the right-hand needle from back to front counterclockwise before knitting the next stitch. Then work the next stitch as normal.

Click HERE for more knitting abbreviations.

Two-Color Half Linen Stitch

Two Color Half Linen Stitch

Similar to the Linen Stitch, the Two-Color Half Linen Stitch is a pattern which uses the slipped stitch technique to produce a woven look. Knitted in a four-row repeat, this stitch is a very fast knit and is perfect for “TV knitting.” This pattern is done in two colors but can be easily modified to accommodate one color. If you like the traditional Linen Stitch, then you might also enjoy the Two-Color Half Linen Stitch.

Pattern

Skill: easy
Multiple of 2 sts + 3

Color A (shown in yellow)
Color B (shown in teal)

Foundation Row (WS) (Color A): purl.

Row 1 (RS) (Color B): k1, *k1, sl1 wyif; rep from * to the last 2 sts, k2.
Row 2 (Color B): purl.
Row 3 (Color A): k1, sl1 wyif, k1; rep from * to the end.
Row 4 (Color A): purl.

Repeat Rows 1-4.

Knitting Abbreviations

wyif (with yarn in front): bring the yarn forward as if to perform a PURL stitch.

Click HERE for more knitting abbreviations.

Ornate Openwork II

Ornate Openwork Stitch II

Knitted using the same pattern as the number one version, the Ornate Openwork II stitch pattern is the reverse side of the Ornate Openwork I. Even though it is technically the “wrong” side, this pattern is equally as attractive as its “right” side, offering an artistic design that looks similar to artwork of the art deco period. For optimal results, be sure to block the knitted work accordingly. 

Pattern

NOTE: this pattern is the reverse side of the Ornate Openwork I.

Skill: intermediate
Multiple of 4 sts + 1

Row 1 (RS): p1, *k3, p1; rep. From * to the end.
Row 2: k1, *p3, k1; rep from * to the end.
Row 3: rep. Row 1.
Row 4: k1, *yo, p3tog, yo, k1; rep from * to the end.
Row 5: k2, p1, *k3, p1; rep from * to the last 2 sts, k2.
Row 6: p2, k1, *p3, k1; rep from * to the last 2 sts, p2.
Row 7: rep. Row 5.
Row 8: p2tog, yo, k1, yo, *p3tog, yo, k1, yo; rep from * to the last 2 sts, p2tog.

Repeat Rows 1-8.

Knitting Abbreviations

yo (yarn over): wrap the yarn around the right-hand needle from back to front counterclockwise before knitting the next stitch. Then work the next stitch as normal.

p2tog (purl 2 together): insert the right-hand needle into the first two stitches on the left-hand needle and wrap the working yarn around the right-hand needle as if you would for a purl stitch. Pull the yarn through both stitches and slide both stitches off the left-hand needle. You have now purled two stitches together thus resulting in a right-leaning decrease (if you’re viewing it from the right side).

p3tog (purl 3 together): insert the right-hand needle into the first three stitches on the left-hand needle and wrap the working yarn around the right-hand needle as if you would for a purl stitch. Pull the yarn through both stitches and slide both stitches off the left-hand needle. You have now purled two stitches together thus resulting in a right-leaning decrease (if you’re viewing it from the right side).

Click HERE for more knitting abbreviations.

Ornate Openwork I

Ornate Openwork II Stitch

Knitted in a multiple of four stitches plus one and done in an eight row repeat, the Ornate Openwork I stitch requires only purl together and yarn over techniques to produce the intricate lace design. Both sides of the finished stitch pattern could be used, making it great for reversible knitting projects. If you’re in search of a lace pattern that is reversible, then the Ornate Openwork I stitch is one you should try.

Pattern

Skill: intermediate
Multiple of 4 sts + 1

Row 1 (RS): p1, *k3, p1; rep. From * to the end.
Row 2: k1, *p3, k1; rep from * to the end.
Row 3: rep. Row 1.
Row 4: k1, *yo, p3tog, yo, k1; rep from * to the end.
Row 5: k2, p1, *k3, p1; rep from * to the last 2 sts, k2.
Row 6: p2, k1, *p3, k1; rep from * to the last 2 sts, p2.
Row 7: rep. Row 5.
Row 8: p2tog, yo, k1, yo, *p3tog, yo, k1, yo; rep from * to the last 2 sts, p2tog.

Repeat Rows 1-8.

Knitting Abbreviations

yo (yarn over): wrap the yarn around the right-hand needle from back to front counterclockwise before knitting the next stitch. Then work the next stitch as normal.

p2tog (purl 2 together): insert the right-hand needle into the first two stitches on the left-hand needle and wrap the working yarn around the right-hand needle as if you would for a purl stitch. Pull the yarn through both stitches and slide both stitches off the left-hand needle. You have now purled two stitches together thus resulting in a right-leaning decrease (if you’re viewing it from the right side).

p3tog (purl 3 together): insert the right-hand needle into the first three stitches on the left-hand needle and wrap the working yarn around the right-hand needle as if you would for a purl stitch. Pull the yarn through both stitches and slide both stitches off the left-hand needle. You have now purled two stitches together thus resulting in a right-leaning decrease (if you’re viewing it from the right side).

Click HERE for more knitting abbreviations.