Two-Color Half Linen Stitch

Two Color Half Linen Stitch

Similar to the Linen Stitch, the Two-Color Half Linen Stitch is a pattern which uses the slipped stitch technique to produce a woven look. Knitted in a four-row repeat, this stitch is a very fast knit and is perfect for “TV knitting.” This pattern is done in two colors but can be easily modified to accommodate one color. If you like the traditional Linen Stitch, then you might also enjoy the Two-Color Half Linen Stitch.

Pattern

Skill: easy
Multiple of 2 sts + 3

Color A (shown in yellow)
Color B (shown in teal)

Foundation Row (WS) (Color A): purl.

Row 1 (RS) (Color B): k1, *k1, sl1 wyif; rep from * to the last 2 sts, k2.
Row 2 (Color B): purl.
Row 3 (Color A): k1, sl1 wyif, k1; rep from * to the end.
Row 4 (Color A): purl.

Repeat Rows 1-4.

Knitting Abbreviations

wyif (with yarn in front): bring the yarn forward as if to perform a PURL stitch.

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Ornate Openwork II

Ornate Openwork Stitch II

Knitted using the same pattern as the number one version, the Ornate Openwork II stitch pattern is the reverse side of the Ornate Openwork I. Even though it is technically the “wrong” side, this pattern is equally as attractive as its “right” side, offering an artistic design that looks similar to artwork of the art deco period. For optimal results, be sure to block the knitted work accordingly. 

Pattern

NOTE: this pattern is the reverse side of the Ornate Openwork I.

Skill: intermediate
Multiple of 4 sts + 1

Row 1 (RS): p1, *k3, p1; rep. From * to the end.
Row 2: k1, *p3, k1; rep from * to the end.
Row 3: rep. Row 1.
Row 4: k1, *yo, p3tog, yo, k1; rep from * to the end.
Row 5: k2, p1, *k3, p1; rep from * to the last 2 sts, k2.
Row 6: p2, k1, *p3, k1; rep from * to the last 2 sts, p2.
Row 7: rep. Row 5.
Row 8: p2tog, yo, k1, yo, *p3tog, yo, k1, yo; rep from * to the last 2 sts, p2tog.

Repeat Rows 1-8.

Knitting Abbreviations

yo (yarn over): wrap the yarn around the right-hand needle from back to front counterclockwise before knitting the next stitch. Then work the next stitch as normal.

p2tog (purl 2 together): insert the right-hand needle into the first two stitches on the left-hand needle and wrap the working yarn around the right-hand needle as if you would for a purl stitch. Pull the yarn through both stitches and slide both stitches off the left-hand needle. You have now purled two stitches together thus resulting in a right-leaning decrease (if you’re viewing it from the right side).

p3tog (purl 3 together): insert the right-hand needle into the first three stitches on the left-hand needle and wrap the working yarn around the right-hand needle as if you would for a purl stitch. Pull the yarn through both stitches and slide both stitches off the left-hand needle. You have now purled two stitches together thus resulting in a right-leaning decrease (if you’re viewing it from the right side).

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Ornate Openwork I

Ornate Openwork II Stitch

Knitted in a multiple of four stitches plus one and done in an eight row repeat, the Ornate Openwork I stitch requires only purl together and yarn over techniques to produce the intricate lace design. Both sides of the finished stitch pattern could be used, making it great for reversible knitting projects. If you’re in search of a lace pattern that is reversible, then the Ornate Openwork I stitch is one you should try.

Pattern

Skill: intermediate
Multiple of 4 sts + 1

Row 1 (RS): p1, *k3, p1; rep. From * to the end.
Row 2: k1, *p3, k1; rep from * to the end.
Row 3: rep. Row 1.
Row 4: k1, *yo, p3tog, yo, k1; rep from * to the end.
Row 5: k2, p1, *k3, p1; rep from * to the last 2 sts, k2.
Row 6: p2, k1, *p3, k1; rep from * to the last 2 sts, p2.
Row 7: rep. Row 5.
Row 8: p2tog, yo, k1, yo, *p3tog, yo, k1, yo; rep from * to the last 2 sts, p2tog.

Repeat Rows 1-8.

Knitting Abbreviations

yo (yarn over): wrap the yarn around the right-hand needle from back to front counterclockwise before knitting the next stitch. Then work the next stitch as normal.

p2tog (purl 2 together): insert the right-hand needle into the first two stitches on the left-hand needle and wrap the working yarn around the right-hand needle as if you would for a purl stitch. Pull the yarn through both stitches and slide both stitches off the left-hand needle. You have now purled two stitches together thus resulting in a right-leaning decrease (if you’re viewing it from the right side).

p3tog (purl 3 together): insert the right-hand needle into the first three stitches on the left-hand needle and wrap the working yarn around the right-hand needle as if you would for a purl stitch. Pull the yarn through both stitches and slide both stitches off the left-hand needle. You have now purled two stitches together thus resulting in a right-leaning decrease (if you’re viewing it from the right side).

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Tiny Eyelet Cables Stitch

Tiny Eyelet Cables Stitch

Contrary to its name, the Tiny Eyelet Cables stitch is a mock cable stitch and does not require the use of cable needles to produce the “cable” look. With only 4 rows and knitted in a multiple of 6 stitches plus 3, this stitch is a fast knit and is far less complicated to knit than it looks. If you want to have the “cable” look without having to actually go through the hassle of knitting cables, the Tiny Eyelet Cables stitch is one you should certainly try.

Pattern

Skill: intermediate
Multiple of 6 sts + 3

Row 1 (RS): *p3, slip the next 3 sts  pass the third st on the right-hand need over the first 2 sts, slip those 2 sts back onto the left-hand needle, k1, yo, k1; rep from * to the last 3 sts, p3.
Row 2: k3, *p3, k3; rep from * to the end.
Row 3: *p3, k3; rep from * to the end.
Row 4: repeat Row 2.

Repeat Rows 1-4.

Eyespot Lace Stitch

Eyespot Lace Stitch

The Eyespot Lace stitch involves knitting both left-leaning and right-leaning decreases while using the double yarn over technique to create large eyelets. The result is the creation of large eyelets resembling “eyespots” similar to what you would see on a peacock’s feather. If you like the look of traditional eyelets but want to try something that produces a larger eyelet look, then this stitch might be worth a try. Note: like most lace stitches, blocking is recommended for optimal results.

Pattern

Skill: intermediate
Multiple of 4 sts + 6

Row 1 (RS): k1, k2tog, *(yo)x2, ssk, k2tog; rep. from * to the last 3 sts, (yo)x2, ssk, k1.
Row 2: p2, (k1, p1) into the double yarn over, *p2, (k1, p1) into the double yarn over; rep. from * to the last 2 sts, p2.
Row 3: knit.
Row 4: purl.
Row 5: k1, yo, *ssk, k2tog; (yo)x2; rep. from * to the last 5 sts, ssk, k2tog, yo, k1.
Row 6: p4, *(k1, p1) into the double yarn over, p2; rep. from * to the last 2 sts, p2.
Row 7: knit.
Row 8: purl.

Repeat Rows 1-8.

Knitting Abbreviations

yo (yarn over): wrap the yarn around the right-hand needle from back to front counterclockwise before knitting the next stitch. Then work the next stitch as normal.

ssk (slip, slip, knit): slip the next 2 stitches knitwise, one at a time, insert the left-hand needle through the front of both loops and knit them together.

k2tog (knit 2 together): insert the right-hand needle into the first two stitches on the left-hand needle and wrap the working yarn around the right-hand needle as if you would for a knit stitch. Pull the yarn through both stitches and slide both stitches off the left-hand needle. You have now knitted two stitches together thus resulting in a right-leaning decrease.

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Two-Color Bee Stitch

Two-Color Bee Stitch

The Two-Color Bee Stitch is the same stitch pattern as the original Bee Stitch with the only difference being the first involves knitting with two colors. The Bee Stitch has distinct similarities to honeycomb brioche stitch but the edges of bee stitch do not curl. Therefore, blocking is not necessary. If you’re looking to spice things up with the Bee Stitch, then try knitting it with multiple colors using the Two-Color Bee Stitch pattern below.

Pattern

Skill: intermediate
Multiple of 2 sts + 1

Foundation Row 1 (Color A): knit.
Foundation Row 2 (Color A): knit.

Row 1 (WS) (Color B): K1, *K1B, K1; rep from * to end.
Row 2 (Color B): knit.
Row 3 (Color A): K2, K1B, *K1, K1B; rep from * to last 2 sts, K2.
Row 4 (Color A): knit.

Repeat Rows 1-4.

Knitting Abbreviations

K1B (Knit 1 Below): insert needle into stitch below the next stitch on the left-hand needle and knit it in the usual way, slipping the stitch above off the needle at the same time.

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